Lyon, the third-largest city in France, is a vibrant and cosmopolitan metropolis. Its rich historical heritage blends with contemporary development. Known for its cuisine as well as its beauty, Lyon is a perfect place to visit to get a flavor for French culture.
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From Paris, Lyon is a two-hour train ride from the Gare de Lyon station. Trains run at least every hour and sometimes twice an hour. Plan your time in Lyon at the beginning or end of your Paris stay to add another layer to your trip.
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Lyon is located at the confluence of two major European rivers, the Rhône and the Saône. The strategic location at the meeting point of these two waterways made Lyon a vital trading center, connecting northern and southern Europe. The rivers made it possible for goods and merchandise to be transported, allowing Lyon to flourish economically. Today, the rivers are part of the personality of Lyon. You can walk across a bridge and take in the view from all angles.
Read on to learn how to spend two days in Lyon. You can mix the order of your sightseeing. And you just may want to return to some gems. My favorite time spent in Lyon was early morning as the sun rose on the tall buildings in the Old Town. The narrow cobblestone lanes lie quiet before the bustle of the day begins. You’ll have the historic streets pretty much to yourself, allowing you to imagine what life was like here hundreds of years ago.
Wander the winding lanes of the historic Old Town of Lyon
Also known as Vieux Lyon, the Old Town is the heart of the city, especially for a history buff. This area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its beautiful Renaissance and Gothic architecture, cobblestone streets, and picturesque courtyards. It’s a great place to explore on foot and discover hidden gems like the traboules, hidden passageways that were used by silk traders in the 17th century. Restaurants and cafes line the streets, interspersed with boutique shops.
Explore the traboules of Lyon
The traboules are a network of hidden passageways and courtyards that are a distinctive feature of Lyon’s architecture. They were originally created in the 4th century as a way for residents to easily transport water from the Saône River to their homes. Over time, the traboules evolved into a network of secret passages that served a variety of purposes, including transporting goods and people, and providing a means of escape during times of conflict.
During World War II, Lyon was an important center of the French Resistance against Nazi occupation. The city played a key role in intelligence and sabotage activities, and its citizens actively resisted the German forces. Lyon enjoyed the relative freedom of Vichy France until November 1942. After that date, the Germans occupied the city and kept an eye on the French, but they apparently never discovered the many traboules.
Today, the traboules are a popular tourist attraction and a unique way to explore the city’s history and architecture. The traboules are typically narrow and dimly lit, with stone walls and vaulted ceilings. Many of the traboules lead to hidden courtyards, or “cours”, that are often decorated with beautiful Renaissance and Gothic architecture. Some are completely dark until you open the door. People live in the buildings inside the traboules, and some enterprising folk have set up shops inside them.
Visitors can take a self-guided tour of the traboules or join a guided tour to learn more about their history and significance. Some of the most famous traboules in Lyon include the Traboule de la Cour des Voraces, the Traboule du Passage Thiaffait, and the Traboule Saint-Jean.
Tour the massive church on the hill
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière sits on top of Fourvière Hill, above the Old Town. Its location guarantees that when you visit, you will enjoy panoramic views of the city. Built in the late 19th century, this church features mosaics, stained glass windows, and ornate decorations.
You can walk up the hill from the Old town. But it’s much more fun to ride the funicular up from the main square.
Visit the ancient Fourvière Roman Theater
The Fourvière Roman Theater is a well-preserved theater that was built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. It could seat up to 10,000 people and was used for performances of plays, concerts, and other events. Today, the theater is a popular tourist attraction and is still used for occasional cultural events and performances.
Combine your visit here with your time at the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, as it’s down a winding street, just a short walk away. From the Roman Theater, you can continue walking down the hill to reach the Old Town.
Marvel at the beauty of John the Baptist Church
This beautiful Gothic cathedral, also known as the Lyon Cathedral, dates back to the 12th century and is known for its stunning stained-glass windows and ornate decorations. An ornate antique clock and an exquisite pipe organ caught my attention, too. I spent more time here than in the church on the hill; it seems more relatable and less fancy. Also, a friendly guide talked to me about the history of the clock. And an organist practicing during my visit gave me a wonderful taste of the music here.
Venture to the Presqu’ile
Lyon’s two rivers converge in Lyon’s city center, where they form a peninsula called the Presqu’île. This area is known for its historic architecture dating back to the 12th century, restaurants, shops, and cultural attractions.
In this attractive area the buildings are generally beautiful and often painted in pale pastel colors and feature pretty balconies. Most of them are shops and restaurants, making this area fantastic for shopping and eating. During the day, the area between Place Bellacour and Place des Terraux is wonderful for shopping, with all the big names and lots of interesting boutiques and designer shops.
Hang out in the large Place Bellecour
The Place Bellecour, a large square in the heart of the Presqu’ile, is one of the largest open squares in Europe. With its pop-up fountain and stately buildings and cafes, it’s a great place to relax and have a coffee.
A massive sculpture of horses dominates Place Bellecour. This Fountain Bartholdi was originally the result of a competition to design a fountain for a square in Bordeaux. Frederic Bartholdi won the competition, but his design was not used until many years later, after his success with the Statue of Liberty in New York. The fountain features a woman and child on a chariot to symbolize France. The four horses symbolize France’s four great rivers.
Climb the hills of the Croix-Rousse
This historic neighborhood rising above Place Bellecour was once the center of Lyon’s silk industry. It’s known for steep, winding streets and breathtaking views of the city. Some streets are so steep that helpful planners built stairways for sidewalks. Look for street art and whimsical decorations on the buildings.Especially eye-catching are the windows painted with scenes from French life. The story is that, in the past, windows were taxed. So people painted them over, resulting in art and no more windows.
Stand at the Confluence of Two Major European Rivers
The confluence of the Rhône and the Saône Rivers occurs in the southern part of the city, near the historic center. You can walk here and see this for yourself. The confluence offers picturesque views, waterfront promenades, and recreational opportunities.
Look for Sights Focusing on Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the author of the beloved children’s book “The Little Prince,” was born in Lyon on June 29, 1900. He spent much of his childhood here and later returned to the city as an adult. He was a regular at local cafes and bookshops, and was friends with many of Lyon’s prominent writers and artists.Today, visitors to Lyon can learn more about Saint-Exupéry’s life and legacy at the Musée des Confluences, which has a permanent exhibit dedicated to the author and aviator. The exhibit includes artifacts from his life, such as his personal belongings, manuscripts, and photographs, as well as interactive displays and multimedia installations. Also look for a store entirely dedicated to The Little Prince. At other shops, too, you will find souvenirs dedicated to the Little Prince – everything from snow globes to pillows to water bottles.
Visit the Resistance Museum
The Resistance and Deportation History Centre (Centre d’Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation) museum preserves the history of the French Resistance and the deportation of Jews and other groups during World War II.The museum features a collection of artifacts, photographs, documents, and personal accounts that illustrate the experiences of Resistance fighters, deportees, and victims of the war. The exhibits cover a wide range of topics, including the Nazi occupation of France, the formation of the Resistance, the role of women in the Resistance, and the deportation and extermination of Jews, homosexuals, and other groups.
While most of the exhibits are in French with no English translation, I found it fairly easy to understand what I was seeing because the museum is in chronological order. I highly recommend a visit here because it provides a sobering reminder of the importance of standing up for one’s beliefs and resisting oppression.
Savor the cuisine of Lyon
Lyon is renowned for its vibrant food scene, with a wide variety of restaurants and eateries to choose from. You can wander and choose one and it’s likely you’ll have a memorable meal. Here are a few recommendations for where to eat in Lyon:
Italian Trattoria République Lyon: This pleasant restaurant at 11 Rue de la République in the Old Town served such delicious food that I dined here two evenings in a row. I can recommend the quenelle in lobster sauce. Yum!Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse – This indoor market is named after the famous Lyonnaise chef Paul Bocuse and is a must-visit destination for foodies. The market features a wide variety of local and international delicacies, including cheeses, meats, seafood, pastries, and more.
L’Atelier des Augustins: This modern, industrial-chic restaurant is located near the Saint-Jean cathedral in Lyon’s Old Town. The menu features contemporary French cuisine, with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and creative presentation. The restaurant also offers a selection of natural wines to pair with your meal.
Stay in the most historic area of Lyon
I recommend staying in or near the Old Town. That will allow you to visit this area early morning or later in the evening. Several charming and comfortable hotels can be found here. Here are a few recommendations:
Hotel Le Collège: I stayed here and was simply enchanted by the theme of a school. Old desks, posters, giant pencils, French schoolbooks – everything was school-themed. The 19th-century building features stylish decor, modern amenities, and a rooftop terrace with panoramic views of the city. Breakfast offered so many delicious choices. The seating at long tables (remember your school cafeteria?) made it easy to meet and talk with other travelers. And you walk out the front door of this hotel right into the Old Town.Cour des Loges: This five-star hotel is located in the heart of Old Lyon and features Renaissance-style architecture and luxurious amenities such as a spa and Michelin-starred restaurant. Note that it is closed for renovation until summer 2023.
Villa Maïa (website is French only): This luxury hotel is located on the hill of Fourvière in Old Lyon and offers stunning views of the city. It features elegant decor, a spa, and an outdoor pool.
Hotel du Théâtre: This charming boutique hotel is located in a historic building in the heart of Old Lyon. It features individually decorated rooms with vintage furnishings and a cozy lounge area. This hotel is on the peninsula near Place Bellecour.
Lyon is the place for a fabulous 2 day visit
Whether you come for the history, the architecture, the food, or the French culture, you are sure to find plenty that pleases you in Lyon. You’ll enjoy a trip you’ll always remember!
3 Comments
Magnificent shots!
I was in Lyon earlier this year and visited a lot of the same places. It’s a great little city!
I love this article and your pictures! I’m planning to visit Lion so I will surely use your guide. Thank you very much 🙂