Visiting the D-Day Beaches — Utah Beach

Utah Beach today is a windswept, wide swath of beach bordered by grassy dunes that wave in the breeze. It’s hard to believe this was the site of a major battle of World War II.

D-Day involved five beaches. Their code names: Omaha, Utah, Gold, Juno, and Sword. If you can, visit all of the beaches for a full overview of the landings. Utah Beach is at the west (south) end of the string of beaches.

D-Day Landing Map

On June 6, 1944, the Allies landed along about 50 miles of beaches to set in motion the liberation of Europe from the Nazis. There were five separate landings to Operation Overlord by American, British, and Canadian troops involving 160,000 soldiers. Here’s a map from HistoryExtra.com to give you a good idea of the beaches. Map © Paul Hewitt, Battlefield Design – www.battlefield-design.co.uk

Visiting Utah Beach Today

A visit to Utah Beach in Normandy can include the beach itself, an iconic cafe, a large museum, and a drive through the farmlands where paratroopers landed in preparation for the assault on the beach. There’s a haunted farm, countless memorials, and buildings still pockmarked with bullet holes. I spent two days in the Utah Beach area, and it was a dream come true for me. Here are some of my favorite experiences.

The Beach

Utah Beach was added to the D-Day plan shortly before June 6, 1944. The idea was that the Allies would be closer to the prized port of Cherbourg. Both the paratroopers dropped in the night and the troops arriving by way of the English Channel in the early hours of daylight landed largely off target. On the beach, U.S. Brigadier General Theodore Roosevelt Jr., son of former President Theodore Roosevelt, realized his men were more than a mile away from the planned destination. His decision: “We’ll start the war from here!” By noon, he and his men had linked up with some of the paratroopers. By the end of this longest day, the Utah Beach men had advanced four miles inland, taking far less of a beating than those landing at Omaha Beach.

This red-roofed house was here on D-Day. Fortunately, it survived.

Most of the Americans coming across the English Channel and landing on Utah Beach on D-Day came in Higgins boats, officially known as the American Landing Craft, Vehicle, Personnel (LCVP). A replica of this style of landing craft sits on Utah Beach as a memorial.

The memorial to the 90th Infantry Division of the U.S. Army sat in disrepair for years and is now cleaned up and standing proud. This one is personal to me because my dad later served in the 90th (357th Regiment). He was at Flossenburg in Germany, and the granite of this monument comes from the quarry there. Even though my dad landed in France months after D-Day, I felt a connection here.

The Roosevelt Cafe at Utah Beach

This historic restaurant and shop on Utah beach once was a fisherman’s cabin. The Germans used it during World War II as a center for designing the defenses known as the Atlantic Wall. They added a concrete bunker in the back that you can see today. Until June 6, 1944, they used this for communications. The Allies took over on D-Day and used the bunker for naval communications for the next several months. It was soon renamed to honor one of the heroes of Utah Beach.

Here’s a photo from June 1944 of Roosevelt on the dunes of Utah Beach.

Enjoy a latte — or lunch! — and browse among the memorabilia.

Vets from World War II and the years after sign the walls. I was thrilled to happen on the signature of a vet I’ve “met” through emails, Vern Schmidt, who was in the 90th Infantry. When he learned my dad was later in the 90th too, we struck up a friendship. I was so happy to report to him when I got home that I found him in the Roosevelt Cafe!

Found this guy, too. Ha ha!

Utah Beach Landing Museum

This Utah Beach Landing Museum offers an outstanding collection of World War II items, large and small. In one section you can look through windows onto the beach. There’s also a hangar to display aircraft.

And look at this orderly schedule for D-Day. The planners could not even imagine the chaos that was coming.

The Normandy Countryside Behind Utah Beach

American paratroopers landed behind Utah beach in the early morning hours before the assaults on the beaches began. British paratroopers landed at the east end of the beaches, about 60 miles away. The idea was to box in the Germans on either end. The paratroopers near Utah Beach were to disable guns pointing at the beach and link up with the troops coming by boat.

Problems arose at once, partly due to weather, partly due to more German strength than anticipated, and a myriad of other factors. Paratroopers were dropped far from their targets. Some fell into flooded fields that Allied intelligence failed to report.

Sainte Mère Église

In a fluke of history, a fire broke out that night in one of the main landing towns, Sainte Mère Église. The mayor had to ask the Germans occupying his town for permission to break curfew and fight the fire. The Germans gave the okay but of course had to guard the bucket brigade. In the middle of this, paratroopers fell from the sky into the midst of armed Germans who should have been asleep. One American got caught on the church building, was shot, but somehow survived the night and lived. A memorial hangs on the church 75 years later.

We decided to spend a day with a tour guide for this area, as we could get very lost trying to navigate the country roads. Allan was so knowledgeable about the D-Day events in the small towns. We learned so much from him! Here are a few of the highlights.

Marmion Farm

Marmion Farm was the rendezvous point for many of the paratroopers who had landed off target.

This is said to be haunted and sits empty, though a neighbor uses the land. The story is that the woman who lived here hanged herself. Her husband then hanged himself out of grief. When the Germans came, a soldier hanged himself. The Allies pushed the Germans out and took photos and film here, which were sent to the U.S. and were the first the public saw of D-Day.

Angoville au Plain

We went in the church in Angoville au Plain that served as a field hospital. Battles raged through this town, and it changed from German to American to German to American control. Two American medics treated all wounded through days of fighting. This church is really a memorial to the liberating troops and these medics. The windows were blown out and later replaced with stained glass to honor the 101st Airborne. The pews still show the bloodstains.

Beuzeville au Plain

In Beuzeville au Plain is a memorial to Lt. Meehan of the 101st Airborne. His plane crashed in the field across the street.

Also across the street is the mayor’s office. You can see the charm of Normandy here.

Reasons to Visit the Towns Behind Utah Beach

The small towns near Utah Beach suffered from being in the line of battle. The people here remember their hard-fought liberation years later. This is lovely, peaceful farmland now, but the reminders of those dark days are everywhere. It’s humbling to visit here and try to imagine what took place. Seeing the houses, the churches, the bullet holes still showing in the stone buildings, is an experience you will always remember.

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Getting to the D-Day Beaches from Paris

You have several options if you are traveling from Paris to the D-Day Beaches.

By train, journey either to Caen or Bayeux. Trains leave from the Paris Saint-Lazare station. The trip is about two to two-and-a-half hours.

Book your train tickets with Rail Europe for easy and reliable service. 

Rail Europe partners with more than 230 train services such as SCNF, DB, and Swiss train lines. So, you can always find the transportation you need for your trip.

If you drive from Paris to Bayeux or Caen, allow about 3 hours. Take A13 to Caen or A13 and A84 to Bayeux.

I can recommend renting with Auto Europe.

I’ve learned that the easiest way to get from Paris to Bayeux is to train to Caen, then rent a car. The car rentals are conveniently right across the street from the train station in Caen. Then drive about 20 minutes to Bayeux. I have driven from Paris, but driving in the city can be crazy. I actually went around the Arc de Triomphe in a circle several times before finding the right exit street. And I haven’t wanted to repeat that adventure!

Where to Stay Near Utah Beach

To stay near the D-Day Beaches, you can stay in Bayeux as your base. Bayeux is a charming town in Normandy, France, known for its well-preserved medieval architecture and its famous Bayeux Tapestry. It’s also the closest town to Omaha Beach. I have stayed here and loved the town, the food, and the people.

When staying in Bayeux, you have various accommodation options ranging from hotels to guesthouses and bed-and-breakfasts. You may want to opt for a hotel in the city center. That way, you are close to the sights as well as plenty of dining and shopping choices.

My favorite hotel is the Hotel Churchill. It’s in a historic building in the heart of the town. It offers comfortable and well-equipped rooms, with amenities like free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and private bathrooms. Some rooms may offer views of the city or the courtyard. And the hotel has a bar and lounge area where guests can relax and unwind. A tasty breakfast is served in a pleasant room. I found the front desk staff to be very helpful with planning your day and finding a restaurant for dinner.

Book the elegant Hotel Churchill — the perfect base for exploring the D-Day Beaches.

Another base for exploring Utah Beach is the town of Sainte Mère Église. Famous for the paratrooper hanging on the cathedral, this is a charming small town with cafes and restaurants.Here are a few hotel options:

Hôtel du 6 Juin: Located right in the heart of Sainte Mère Église, Hôtel du 6 Juin offers comfortable rooms and is close to the town’s historical center.

Book your stay at the comfortable Hotel du 6 Juin in the center of the city.

Hotel Saint-Mère: Another option in the center of Sainte Mère Église is the Hotel Saint-Mère. This hotel features modern amenities and easy access to local attractions.

Book your stay at the delightful Hotel Sainte-Mere for your trip to the D-Day Beaches.

Do You Want to Book a Tour?

You can visit Omaha Beach on your own. This is not difficult if you have a car. Or you may opt for a tour instead. I have visited the beaches both with and without tours. If it’s your first visit, a tour may give you lots of information and stories of the war that you wouldn’t otherwise get.

If you are coming as a day trip from Paris or wanting the enriched experience of a tour, here are good options. 

Overlord Tour: Overlord Tour is one of the most highly regarded D-Day tour operators in the region. They offer small group tours with knowledgeable guides who provide detailed historical information about the events of D-Day. I went on the British Beaches tour and found the guide to be knowledgeable and engaging. I toured on a shuttle with seven other people. We enjoyed conversing about WWII. It was a totally positive experience. 

D-Day Battle Tours: D-Day Battle Tours is the company I toured with in a WWII-era Jeep. My guide Monica kept up a running commentary as we drove along the Normandy lanes. You can choose from private and public tours. I can highly recommend this company.

Bayeux Shuttle: Bayeux Shuttle offers half-day and full-day tours of the D-Day landing sites, including Utah and Omaha Beaches. They provide transportation in comfortable minibuses and provide experienced guides. They also run tours of the D-Day Beaches from Paris.

Or book with respected Viator tours.

Learn more about the D-Day Beaches in Normandy

Visiting the D-Day Beaches: Omaha Beach

Visiting the Five Normandy D-Day Beaches

Visiting the D-Day Beaches: Gold, Juno and Sword

Riding a Jeep Through Normandy

Read about Pointe du Hoc on D-Day. It’s in between Omaha and Utah Beaches.

Visiting Pointe du Hoc, Site of World War II D-Day Battle

Learn more about Normandy

Reasons to Visit Bayeux France

The Old Harbor of Honfleur

Tour the American D-Day Beaches as part of tracing the path of Easy Company in WWII with the National WWII Museum.

 

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